Plan your trip
Travel guides, by place
Real, on-the-ground guides to destinations worth the extra effort — where to go, how to get around, and what the headlines get wrong.
Central Asia
Central Asia
Afghanistan
The Band-e-Amir lakes, lapis country, and travelling the real place — not the news.
Guide coming soon →
Central Asia
Kazakhstan
Endless steppe, the Charyn Canyon, and Almaty under snow-capped mountains.
Guide coming soon →
The index
See all guides
Every country I’ve been to, grouped by region — Central Asia, the Caucasus and beyond.
New to this?
Start here — travel tips
The practical stuff, from someone who figures it out as she goes. See all travel tips →
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Do it on a budget
Sleeping, eating and moving cheap without missing the good parts.
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Off the beaten path
How to plan a trip somewhere there’s no ready-made itinerary.
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What to pack
The short list that’s carried me across 23 countries, solo.
The journals
Stories from the road
Day-by-day journals from the road — each trip, start to finish.
17 Days · Canada
10 Days · Canada
Newfoundland Road Trip
The far edge of the continent — cliffs, fishing towns, and the North Atlantic.
Coming soon
A Drive Across the United States
Coast to coast across the States, with my brother riding shotgun.
Journal coming soon
Coming soon
Guides & prints, in the works
Downloadable trip guides and prints from the road are on the way. Until then, get each new destination guide the moment it’s live.
