grand teton national park teton range

The guides

Guides, by place

Honest, first-hand guides to the countries I’ve actually wandered — heavy on the places the map warns you about, light on the tourist script.

Pick a region below. Guides marked Read the guide are live; the rest are on the way — I’m writing them fastest for the corners of the world hardest to find good, honest advice about.

Central Asia

registan square samarkand uzbekistan

Central Asia

Uzbekistan

Silk Road cities, fast trains, and some of the warmest people on earth.

Read the guide →

Rudaki Park dushambe tajikistan

Central Asia

Tajikistan

Guide coming soon

Medeu–Shymbulak Gondola Cable Car almaty kazhakstan

Central Asia

Kazakhstan

Guide coming soon

Afghanistan

kabul afghanistan street market bazaar

The frontier

Afghanistan

The trip people ask about most — an honest, first-hand account of somewhere the map warns you about.

Guide coming soon

The Caucasus

ushguli georgia

Caucasus

Georgia

Guide coming soon

republic square yerevan armenia

Caucasus

Armenia

Guide coming soon

Southeast Asia

railay beach thailand

SE Asia

Thailand

Coming soon

hoi an vietnam night

SE Asia

Vietnam

Coming soon

luang prabang viewpoint

SE Asia

Laos

Coming soon

angkor wat cambodia

SE Asia

Cambodia

Coming soon

batu caves kuala lumpur malaysia

SE Asia

Malaysia

Coming soon

kelingking beach sunset

SE Asia

Indonesia

Coming soon

siargao island jacking horse philippines

SE Asia

Philippines

Coming soon

East Asia

tiananmen square

East Asia

China

Coming soon

victoria peak hong kong

East Asia

Hong Kong

Coming soon

shibuya crossing tokyo

East Asia

Japan

Coming soon

myeongdong

East Asia

South Korea

Coming soon

North America

larch trees banff National Park

N. America

Canada

Coming soon

mount rushmore

N. America

USA

Coming soon

cozumel beach mexico

N. America

Mexico

Coming soon

Europe

wroclaw old town  poland

Europe

Poland

Coming soon

bode museum berlin

Europe

Germany

Coming soon

Russia

north ossetia bus station russia

Eurasia

Russia

Too vast to file under anything else — from the western cities to the long haul east.

Guide coming soon

Prefer the day-by-day?

Follow a whole trip in the journals

Guides are the reference; the journals are the story — my road trips told one day at a time.